Reaching the top

 I'm sitting in the lounge of a lovely lodge hotel on the north coast of Scotland. The rain is beating on the windows, the thunder is cracking overhead and there are log fires in the bar and the lounge, where we have just eaten a superb meal. We feel cosy and snug and to cap it all, the Lodge is tartan carpeted throughout. Essential, surely, for any Scottish Highland hotel. If we were in a car, we could fully embrace the wild weather. In the back of our minds is the knowledge that tomorrow we are out in it all day. The forecast isn't great. But then it's almost felt like we are cheating. So far, Scotland has offered very little in the way of bad weather. We feel like it hasn't shown its true colours. Perhaps it will tomorrow? If not, much of our cycle clothing kit will return unused and carried from Land's End for nothing.

Yes, there was a heavy mist this morning and we set off in our coats. We removed them after just half an hour. It wasn't the easiest start. We  talked to two single guys at breakfast and all agreed that the Lairg nightlife had taken us by surprise. All was quiet at 10:00 pm then the tiny town of just one street came alive to music, talking and shouting both indoors and outdoors. It went on for some time.  Every time we thought it had finished  we opened the window only to shut it moments later when it all kicked off again. Our breakfast companions reported doing exactly the same. Lesson? Never assume that a sleepy town on the shores of a tranquil lock stays asleep.

Our route took us gently but constantly up until we were quite high. We are now in the 'flow country'. Flow coming from the Norse word 'floi' meaning marshy and boggy. Nice. At the highest point is one of the only two pubs in the entire day. And there are no other hostelries of any sort. It is a well known 'end to enders' watering hole because it's there or nowhere. It was shut.

However.... what I haven't told you is that our good friends, Malcolm and Helen, have driven our car to Scotland so that they can pick us up in John O Groats. But today, they were driving past us as we passed Crask Inn. It was very surreal to suddenly see our car coming down the road. It was also lovely to see our friends! They drove on to the one other Inn en route for the day, at the romantically named, Altnaharra. It was shut too but by the time we had arrived, Malcolm and Helen had made contact with the owner and, no doubt bowing to special powers that our friends must possess, he had opened the doors and was ready to serve coffee or whatever we ordered. Which was coffee...

We then said goodbye to them, hoping that they're still our friends as it would be rather good to see them at John O Groats tomorrow. They continued north but we consciously disobeyed the sat nav. I had spotted an amazing road which looked fascinatingly remote. So, tweeking the nose of fear and cocking a snook at conformity, we branched off, turning off the sat nav. It was indeed the most amazing road we have cycled. 25 miles of nothing but breathtaking scenery. We have taken a few photos of a loch. We have never seen reflections in the water that are so incredible. Even the clouds in the sky matched so perfectly, it was difficult to see where land ended and water began.

And so we near the end of our odyssey. We have a demanding day tomorrow. But this evening we feel like Monarchs of the Glen in our Scottish castle. We dare not risk a dram. Not yet.

Pics include being accosted by friends at Crask Inn. Eventually meeting them properly at Altnaharra. Very perfect reflections in a loch. Arriving at our hotel before the weather changed

The pics are in a very random order today. The first pics are from our friends. You'll have to wait until  tomorrow to see pictures of them...